Plum Raspberry Sherbet
Natural level: 6 regrowth about half inch
Existing artificial level: 2 with level 7,8 and 9 on the mid lengths and ends from previous violet ombre
Formulas: prelightened with wella soft blonde:30vol:olaplex
I choose soft blonde when doing fashion shades, since it's white you're able to see the true exposed underlying pigment, no surprises when you rinse, also I love it's creamy consistency especially mixed with olaplex, it doesn't dry out.
Foundation/triangle/veil shade wella color touch 3/68 + /68:6vol
Pravana violet + wild orchid
Joico magenta + pink
I choose to use 2 different brands for the fashion shades because I believe the Joico magenta and pink have a stronger amount of pigment and shine than pravana, but then I like the violet in pravana, because Joico violet is to blue, and I dilute it slightly with the wild orchid.
I first map out on the head where I want all my darker shade to be located, I clip away the veil, and 2 triangles these are going to be the foundation shade so there is no need to lighten them.
Then I need to pre lighten the hair, in this particular situation I used a cotton and cellophane technique. Her ends are already at the desired level so I do not need to lift them, I paint my soft blonde in the mid area where the majority is a level 2, I stay about 1 to 2 inches away from the scalp. Using a medium/white bristle color track application brush (my favorite for any painting techniques ) I take 1 inch horizontal sections through the whole head and defusing the soft blonde as I get closer to the top.
Once the hair has developed to our desired level we rinse and wash once with Kevin Murphy balancing wash. The hair is then blown dry. I mist Aloxxi colourprime on the hair for even porosity, consistent color development and smooth color application. I also apply Aloxxi barrier cream around hairline to prevent from staining.
Then we apply the foundation shade on her regrowth area, next I foil out my veil and 2 triangles with the foundation shade, they're easy to find since they have not been lightened. The veil is a long rectangle shape about 1 to 2 fingers wide on top of her part, in this case she has a strong side part. I then move on to my triangles on the right, which is her heavier side, I placed the triangle above the ear where the curve of the head begins. Triangle point up. I move on to the left, I placed this triangle past the ear below the curve of the head.
Now I use a zip and zag parting technique as I work through the head and foil 2 inch wide slices of the violet and wild orchid mixture. I choose to foil the violet because of it power, if the hair is porous, when you rinse, it can mix, change or overpower other less powerful shades. But of course all hair is different. Once all the foiling is complete we then apply the pink and magenta mixture to all the hair left out of the foils.
Once color is ready to be rinsed, we rinse hair with cooler water, leaving all foils in, you want to make sure to make neat and tight foil packets so they're easy to work around and aren't slipping out. Then we remove foil by foil and rinsing each one simultaneously. After all rinsing is complete we towel dry hair and apply the olaplex masque leave in for 10 mins. Rinse well. And style.
Processing time: wella soft blonde is developed for 30 to 45 mins.
Once color has been completely applied it develops for 30mins
a longer life for your color is a commitment to be aware of what you're doing to your hair constantly. Finding a shampoo and conditioner that you and your hair likes. Making friends with dry shampoo, my favorite Kevin Murphy fresh hair. Get the hairs cut that need to get cut!!! And of course the most amazing thing in our Industry right now Olaplex and the take home olaplex I believe helps the integrity, porosity and of course leads to long life colors. I also believe the water can be very damaging to our locks it has so many unknown minerals. So the less you wet the hair the better. All hair reacts differently but these are my beliefs.
The inspiration for this look is definitely a mash up. My assistant Emily and I attended the BTC color cut and style this past Sept. We have been gradually trying all the techniques we discovered at the show. I have my BTC notebook close so I can reference it often. The veil on this color placement was inspired by Justin Isaac I really enjoyed his teaching technique he painted very visual pictures in my mind. He said he was raised by his mother, she was blind. Which lead him to the way he shares his knowledge. this was very inspiring and really helped me visualize in my mind exactly what he was saying it made so much sense. Other inspirations for this look was the haircut, which we recently cut shorter, and always the amazingly talented artists I am so lucky to work with. I believe the hair speaks to me and guides me to what I want to create, the girls at Salon NOVA always laugh at me because I always say just listen to the hair it will tell you. It's a true collaboration between stylist, client, and the canvas. My client Kelly (the one in the pictures) is always an inspiration, she loves to change up her look so I'm constantly looking at her head with a fresh eye, I love clients that come in and say well what do you want to do, and they're open to trying my suggestions. A little tweak here and there can go a long way, and make someone feel so amazing,important and beautiful that's my favorite part.
For the LOVE of hair and the beauty industry.
creative hairdressing movement Archives